The short answer
For a puncture under 10mm, everything you need is in your Wave repair kit — a PVC swatch, and a valve tool. Find the hole with soapy water, clean and deflate the area, glue a rounded patch over it, and leave it a full 24 hours before inflating. The single most important rule: don't rush the curing time.
What you'll need
- Your Wave repair kit
- Glue
- Washing-up liquid and water
- A cloth, plus a little alcohol or acetone to degrease the surface
- Scissors
- A flat weight (a book works) and a well-ventilated space to work in
Step 1 — Find and mark the puncture
You can't patch what you can't see, and pinholes are easily missed.
- Inflate the board and mix a little washing-up liquid with water.
- Wipe or brush it across the surface. Where air is escaping, the soap will bubble up over the hole.
- Mark the spot clearly with a waterproof pen so you don't lose it once the bubbles are wiped away.
If the leak turns out to be at the valve rather than the board surface, stop here — that's a different fix, covered in our valve leak guide.
Step 2 — Prepare the area
- Deflate the board before you go any further. Never try to patch a board under pressure.
- Clean the area around the puncture so it's free of dirt and grease. A wipe with a little alcohol or acetone gives the glue the clean surface it needs to bond.
- Let it dry completely.
Step 3 — Cut your patch
- Cut a piece of the PVC swatch large enough to leave roughly 5cm of patch all the way around the hole.
- Round off the corners. This matters more than it looks — square corners catch and lift at the edges over time, while rounded ones stay put.
Step 4 — Apply the glue
- Spread glue evenly across the back of the patch and over the damaged area on the board, covering the full area the patch will sit on.
- Any glue that squeezes out beyond the patch can be cleaned up afterwards with a little alcohol or acetone.
- Now wait: let the glue dry until it turns transparent before you bring the two surfaces together. This tacky-clear stage is what makes the bond strong.
Step 5 — Press and smooth
- Place the patch over the puncture and press it down firmly.
- Smooth it from the centre out to the edges to push out any trapped air bubbles — a bubble under the patch is a weak spot.
- Press the edges down especially well.
Step 6 — Let it cure (don't skip this)
- The glue takes around 20 minutes to cure to the touch, but leave the board for at least 24 hours before inflating. Longer is better.
- Setting a flat weight over the patch during this time helps it bond evenly.
- Rushing this step is the most common reason a repair fails, so be patient — the board will be as good as new for it.
Once cured, inflate to 18 PSI and run the soapy-water test over the patch one more time to confirm the leak is gone.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Too much glue. A thin, even layer bonds far better than a thick one. Excess glue is the number-one cause of DIY repairs that don't hold.
- Not degreasing first. Glue won't grip a dirty or oily surface — the alcohol/acetone wipe isn't optional.
- Skipping the cure time. Twenty minutes is touch-dry, not ready to paddle. Give it the full 24 hours.
- Square patch corners. Round them, every time.
When not to DIY
The repair-kit method is designed for punctures under 10mm on the board's surface. Hold off and contact us instead if:
- the hole is larger than 10mm,
- the leak is on a seam rather than a flat surface,
- the damage is on or right beside the valve, or
- you've patched it and it's still losing air.
Seam and large-area damage need proper assessment, and forcing a DIY fix can make a warranty claim harder. When in doubt, send us a photo first.
A note on warranty
Punctures and dings from everyday use are wear and tear rather than warranty items — which is exactly what the repair kit is there for. Manufacturing faults such as a failed seam are a different matter and are covered by your 2-year Wave warranty; email the team with your order number and photos and we'll take it from there.
Quick reference
| Stage | Key point |
|---|---|
| Find the hole | Soapy water — watch for bubbles; mark the spot |
| Prep | Deflate fully; degrease with alcohol/acetone |
| Patch size | ~5cm around the hole, corners rounded |
| Glue | Thin, even layer on patch and board; let it go clear |
| Apply | Press firmly, smooth out all bubbles |
| Cure | 24 hours minimum before inflating |
| Don't DIY | Holes over 10mm, seam leaks, or valve-area damage |
Still stuck?
If your patch won't hold, or the damage is bigger than a small puncture, get in touch before paddling. A photo of the damage and your order number help us point you the right way quickly.



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