The short answer

Most valve leaks come from the valve body working slightly loose in its housing. Push the valve pin fully down, then use the valve tool from your repair kit to tighten the valve clockwise until it feels secure — being careful not to over-tighten. That fixes the majority of leaks. If air still escapes, it's usually debris on the seal or, rarely, a valve that needs replacing — both covered below.

First, confirm it's actually the valve

Before you touch anything, make sure the valve is the culprit and not a seam or puncture elsewhere.

  1. Inflate the board to 18 PSI.
  2. Mix a little washing-up liquid with water and brush or sponge it generously over and around the valve.
  3. Watch closely. A steady stream of tiny bubbles tells you where the air is escaping — from the centre of the valve, from the edge where it meets the board, or not at the valve at all.

If the bubbles appear somewhere other than the valve, you're looking at a seam or puncture leak instead — head to our puncture repair guide. If they're at the valve, read on.

While you're there, also rule out the simplest cause of all: the valve pin being in the wrong position. If air only escapes while you're pumping, the pin may be down (deflate mode). Our guide on why your board won't hold air covers that in full.

The three places a valve leaks — and how to fix each

1. Air escaping from around the edge of the valve (a loose valve body)

This is by far the most common. The valve is a two-part fitting that screws into the board, and it can loosen over time.

  • Deflate the board and press the valve pin fully down.
  • Fit the valve tool onto the valve and turn clockwise to tighten until secure. Don't force it past snug — over-tightening can damage the seal.
  • Re-inflate and repeat the soapy-water test to confirm the leak has stopped.

2. Air escaping through the centre of the valve when closed (debris on the seal)

A single grain of sand or grit on the sealing surface is enough to hold the valve open a fraction.

  • Open the valve, rinse the valve area thoroughly with fresh water to flush out any sand or grit, and let it dry fully.
  • Check the pin springs back cleanly to the raised (closed) position.
  • Re-inflate and test again.

3. Air leaking only while the pump hose is attached

This one usually isn't the board at all — it's the connection. Make sure the hose is pushed fully onto the valve and locked with a quarter-turn (the "click the lock"). If air escapes around the hose as you pump, reseat it; a poor connection loses air before it ever reaches the board.

If the valve needs replacing

In the rare event the valve itself is damaged, you can swap it out without any specialist kit — the valve tool in your repair kit does the job.

  1. Fully deflate the board.
  2. Fit the valve tool and turn anticlockwise to release and unscrew the valve insert.
  3. Remove the old insert and fit the replacement, turning clockwise until secure.
  4. Re-inflate and run the soapy-water test one more time.

If you're at all unsure, stop and get in touch rather than forcing it — we'd far rather guide you through it than have you risk the board.

If water has got inside the board

A valve leak can occasionally let a little water into the body of the board. If you hear sloshing, deflate the SUP, remove the air valve, and lay the board valve-side down in a cool, dry, well-ventilated spot for around 24 hours to draw the moisture out. Make sure it's fully dry before rolling it away, to avoid mould.

A note on warranty

A valve that's failed through a genuine manufacturing fault is covered by your 2-year Wave warranty — just email the team with your order number and photos. Leaks caused by grit left in the valve, over-inflation, or general wear fall under maintenance rather than warranty, which is exactly why a rinse after every paddle and the odd valve check pay off.

Quick reference

Where it leaks Cause Fix
Around the valve edge Valve body loosened Pin down, tighten clockwise with valve tool
Through the centre when closed Debris on the seal Rinse valve area, dry, re-test
Only while pumping Hose not fully locked Reseat and lock the pump hose
Valve visibly damaged Faulty or worn valve Deflate, unscrew anticlockwise, fit replacement
Sloshing inside the board Water entered via the valve Deflate, valve-side down, air-dry 24 hrs

Still stuck?

If you've tightened the valve, cleared any debris, and checked the pin position and the board still leaks at the valve, get in touch before paddling. Have your order number and a photo of the inflated board and the valve to hand — it helps us sort it fast.

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