The short answer
After every paddle in the sea, rinse the whole board with fresh water and dry it thoroughly before it goes away. For anything more stubborn, mild soap and water is all you need — avoid harsh chemicals. That's it. Do this consistently and you'll prevent the salt build-up, corrosion, and mould that shorten a board's life.
Why saltwater needs rinsing off
As seawater dries, it leaves salt crystals behind — and those crystals are abrasive. Left on the board, they grind at the PVC surface and the deck pad over time, and they work their way into the places you least want them: the valve seal and the fin bracket. Salt in the valve is a common cause of slow leaks, and grit in the fin box makes fins hard to seat. A quick fresh-water rinse washes all of it away before it can do any harm.
What you'll need
- A hose, or a couple of watering cans of fresh water
- Mild soap (washing-up liquid is fine) for stubborn dirt
- A soft cloth or sponge
- A towel for drying
That's genuinely all — no special cleaners, and nothing harsh.
Step by step
Cleaning is easiest while the board is still inflated, so tackle it before you pack down.
- Rinse the underside first. Lay the board flat and hose down the bottom, working salt and sand off the surface.
- Flip it and rinse the deck. Give the standing area a thorough rinse, then move on to the spots that trap salt (below).
- Spot-clean stubborn marks. For sun cream, mud, or grime that won't rinse away, use a little mild soap and water with a soft sponge. Avoid solvents, bleach, or abrasive scrubbers — they can damage the PVC and the print.
- Rinse off any soap so nothing is left to attract dirt.
- Dry it thoroughly (this step matters — see below).
The spots people miss
Salt and grit hide in a few places a quick splash won't reach:
- The deck pad grooves. The textured channels in the foam hold salt and sand — rinse them out well.
- The rails and seams. Run water along the edges of the board where the seam sits.
- Around the valve. Rinse the valve area to flush out salt and grit, then let it dry. This is one of the simplest ways to prevent a valve leak.
- The fin and fin bracket. Rinse the bracket out, especially after a beach session — sand loves to collect here.
Drying: don't skip it
Packing a damp board away is how mould and mildew start, and a musty board is far harder to deal with than a five-minute dry-off.
- Wipe the board down with a towel, then let it air-dry fully — both sides — out of direct sunlight.
- Pay attention to the deck pad, which holds moisture longer than the smooth PVC.
- Only roll and bag the board once it's completely dry. Wave's manual is clear on this: clean and dry the board before storing to prevent dampness and mould.
Drying in the shade rather than strong sun matters too — prolonged direct sun can bleach the graphics and overheat the PVC.
An optional extra
Some paddlers like to wipe a dedicated UV protectant (one made for inflatable or PVC gear) over the smooth surfaces now and then for extra sun protection. If you do, keep it well away from the deck pad — anything slippery there is a hazard underfoot. It's entirely optional: Wave's own recommendation is simply mild soap and water.
How often?
- After every sea paddle: a full fresh-water rinse and dry.
- After freshwater sessions: a rinse is still worth it to clear off dirt and grit, though it's less critical than with salt.
- Occasionally: a gentle soap-and-water clean to lift any build-up.
Good, regular cleaning is also part of looking after your board properly — neglect and damage from poor maintenance fall outside your 2-year Wave warranty, so this habit protects your cover as well as your board.
Quick reference
| Step | Key point |
|---|---|
| Rinse | Fresh water, underside then deck, while inflated |
| Stubborn dirt | Mild soap and water only — no harsh chemicals |
| Don't miss | Deck grooves, seams, valve area, fin bracket |
| Dry | Fully, both sides, out of direct sun, before storing |
| Avoid | Solvents, bleach, abrasive brushes, drying in strong sun |



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